książka jest fabrycznie NOWA , oryginalna, papierowa - niedostępna w polskiej wersji językowej , - ... - zapraszam do szybkich zakupów - WIEDZA DLA TWOICH KÓŁEK © Jaguar E-Type 3.8 & 4.2 litre (1961-1971) - Essential Buyer’s Guide (Jaguar E-Type - praktyczny poradnik dla kupujących - wszystkie modele 6-cylindrowe z lat 1961-1971) - P. Crespin, Veloce Publishing 2017, język angielski , 64 str, format 19,5x13,9 cm, 100 kolorowych zdjęć, miękka oprawa, waga 0,15 kg - poradnik dla kupujących samochód Jaguar typ E (wszystkie serie z silnikiem 6-cyl.) - obejmuje porady w zakresie: 1) wybór właściwego modelu, 2) koszty nabycia, 3) ceny serwisu, 4) ceny części nowych i używanych, 5) wady i zalety, 6) wartość rynkową poszczególnych modeli, 7) technika kupowania, 8) słabe punkty samochodu, 9) realna wycena i ocena poszczególnych mechanizmów i wyposażenia, 10) zakupy na aukcjach (wady i zalety), 11) dokumenty i dokumentacja, 12) restaurować czy nie, 13) ważne adresy (kluby, firmy restaurujące i dostawcy części), 14) dane techniczne silników, skrzyń biegów, hamulców, dopuszczalne rozmiary opon, 15) statystyki produkcyjne 16) masy i rozmiary, - stanowi zestaw bardzo cennych rad, których zastosowanie ułatwi wybór właściwego egzemplarza i zaoszczędzenie wielu nieoczekiwanych kosztów i problemów w czasie eksploatacji i przy naprawach - kod produktu VE-V5659 - spis treści: Introduction – the purpose of this book 1 Is it the right car for you? – marriage guidance 2 Cost considerations – affordable, or a money pit? 3 Living with a Jaguar E-type – will you get along together? 4 Relative values – which model for you? 5 Before you buy – be well informed 6 Inspection equipment – these items will really help 7 Fifteen minute evaluation – walk away or stay? 8 Key points – where to look for problems 9 Serious evaluation – 60 minutes for years of enjoyment 10 Auctions – sold! Another way to buy your dream 11 Paperwork – correct documentation is essential! 12 What’s it worth? – let your head rule your heart 13 Do you really want to restore? – it’ll take longer and cost more than you think 14 Paint problems – bad complexion, including dimples, pimples and bubbles 15 Problems due to lack of use – just like their owners, Porsches need exercise! 16 The Community – key people, organisations and companies in the Porsche world 17 Vital statistics – essential data at your fingertips Index - wprowadzenie: Having this book in your pocket is just like having a real marque expert at your side. Benefit from Peter Crespin’s years of Jaguar experience, learn how to spot a bad E-Type quickly, and how to assess a promising one like a true professional. Get the right car at the right price! - streszczenie wydawcy: The 6-cylinder E-type is generally regarded as the world s most beautiful sports car. Such is the allure of this sixties icon, that many have let their heart rule their heads and ended up with a car that remained unfinished or wasn’t right for them in some way. Forty years later, the risks have multiplied hugely, since many E-types appear superficially good but hide a multitude of, usually very expensive, sins. This dedicated buyer s guide, written by someone who had to build his own car the hard way, is packed with the dos and don ts of selecting, viewing and thoroughly assessing any potential purchase, to make sure you enjoy your E-type ownership and avoid ending up with a dispiriting and financially ruinous money-pit. - niezależne opinie: Review from Australian Classic Car, September 2007 Veloce has now published 13 of these handy pocket size books. Each serves as a useful guide for enthusiasts and assumes that readers will already know a little about older cars. The publications follow a pattern, starting off with the question, "Is this car right for you?" – it's a valid question, since many first-time owners buy with their hearts and not their heads, and live to regret it. Included are chapters on costs, what it's like living with an E-type. Items to watch out for are helpfully divided into a 15-minute evaluation and a more serious investigation examining mechanicals, body, trim and so forth in close detail. The author then compares the various advantages of auctions against private sales before discussing the all important paperwork – after all, you'll want to make sure that the seller actually owns what you are buying. Internet links and tips on where to find spares are helpful as is the list of relevant publications. Put it in your pocket before you start looking. - Review from Jaguar Magazine, Australia, Edition 127 This book, written by Peter Crispin, might have a flexible cover but it is very strong on useful information designed to help a potential buyer find problem areas. It is broken up into sixteen very good chapters which include Cost Considerations, Living with an E-type, Inspection Equipment, Key Points, Do You Really Want to Restore It? and Vital Statistics. The author very obviously knows his subject and this book is not only very readable, but it could save a prospective buyer a lot of money and heartache. - Review from Hemmings Sport & Exotic Magazine, February 2007 This is not a book for the squeamish. No, not with its photos of rotted-out bulkheads, rusted-through frames and collapsed engine mounts. There must be hundreds of thousands of dollars' worth of damage documented on these pages, which should serve to make even the most besotted E-Type admirer pause before writing that check or raising that bidder's paddle. The guide covers all six-cylinder cars, including coupes, roadsters and 2+2s. At 61/2. by 83/4 inches, it's a handy volume, if just a bit too big to be called pocket-sized. Its 64 pages are arranged in 17 sections, beginning with "is it the right car for you?" and ending with 'Vital statistics." Its brief and breezy-the longest chapter, "Serious evaluation," covers 16 pages, while the briefest are but a single page. The chapter on how to evaluate the car alone makes the book worth buying; it follows the logical procedure followed by most professionals, beginning with a look at a distance at how the car is sitting, and working its way through the body, mechanicals, and interior, with a good number of photographs of what to look out for. There are post-purchase chapters, too, on such issues as compiling paperwork and finding supportive clubs. Some sections are applicable to nearly any car,- the chapters on paintwork and the questionable wisdom of trying to restore a rusty car come to mind. This book is an excellent starting point for anyone contemplating ownership of an E-Type, and cheap enough insurance to keep the unwary away from the worst pitfalls. - Review from The Automobile, January 2007 If you are just thinking of buying any of these cars, the booklets give an extremely good guide as to how to go about it, starting with ensuring that it really is the right car for you. The bulk of the pages tells you how to check the condition of the cars you inspect, and gives a simple marking system to make comparisons. Costs of replacement parts are also given. At the end you get a list of clubs and specialists. At that price, it is very cheap insurance against getting the wrong car. - Review from Classic Car Weekly, January 2007 Peter Crespin has written this brilliant pocket sized guide into buying and owning one. From practical advice and who's who in the Jaguar scene, to making sense of history files and other paperwork, it is an ideal foundation to build on your E-Type knowledge before taking the plunge. Nonetheless, a lot of the information offered could pay dividends when viewing any make of classic car. If you are looking for the right E-type we'd recommend combining the information offered in this informative guide with a specialist inspecting the car prior to giving a deposit. Because this leaping cat doesn't come cheap and a second opinion will be priceless. - Review from Australian Classic Car, August 2006 Looking for an MGB, E-type or TR6? Need a quick and easy reference guide for the car of your dreams? These three smaller publications may be just what you need. As the title implies each is a buyer's guide containing all sorts of useful information. Each follows the same format and starts with the obvious - "Is it the right car for you?" - and even asks how tall you are and advises on the minimum size garage needed. Next comes the cost of the vehicle as well as spares. What's it like to drive? Is it practical? Then it's the important bits - what to look for in each vehicle. This is divided into a quick inspection, key points and serious evaluation. These steps are followed by tips on the paperwork involved and on reckoning what the car really is worth to the buyer. Restoration? That's included but the writers pull no punches, saying that it will take longer and will cost more than you think. Further chapters deal with clubs, parts suppliers, publications and vehicle vital statistics. These are very useful publications and highly recommended. - Review from Octane Magazine, August 2006 VELOCE continues to churn out this series of slim pocket-sized guides at a prolific rate. Each is written by someone with extensive real-life experience of the subject car and illustrated with lots of (rather small) colour pics.The buying advice is of the kind familiar from countless magazine articles but dispensed in much greater detail, and there are useful appendices on chassis numbers, books, specifications and so on. - Review by Mark Holman for New Zealand Classic Cars, August 2006 Literally pocket-sized - so you can take these guides when you go and look at one of these cars - initially this book seems very UK/Europe oriented, with club addresses and specialist firms. But take a longer look and you'll realise it has plenty of good general advice on buying and owning an older car - like reminding you that paintwork always looks good on a wet night (something I realised after I'd bought at least one of my cars!). But where it scores most highly is on the 15-minute evaluation ('walk away or stay'), where to look for problems, and the serious evaluation ('60 minutes for years of enjoyment'). The 32 headings include engine noise, cabin trim, and clutch and pedal assemblies. with good practical hints on what to look out for under each. Add up the car's points at the end (assuming you've found a patient vendor!) and you've got a pretty good idea of what you might be buying. This is a practical and inexpensive book that could save you some real money. - Review from Classic Car Mart, July 2006 Veloce Publishing seems to be cornering the market when it comes to cheap and cheerful volumes aimed at today’s classic car buyer. They all fall under the generic heading of The Essential Buyer’s Guides. The great thing about these books is that they really are inexpensive. Just ?9.99 buys you a copy, and for that you get a 64-page softback title packed with vital information and advice on buying your vehicle of choice. This series is an interesting diversion for Veloce, and one that deserves to do well. It’s good to see practical, affordable titles like this on the market. - przykładowy tekst: Concours contender If you are paying top money for a supposed concours car, you ought to be able to take many aspects for granted, pending more detailed checks later, and spend your fifteen minutes seeing if the car really has those special features that justify the price. To be certain how ‘correct’ a car is, you would need an experienced concours judge and/or detailed reference to concours guidelines, such as those published by the Jaguar Clubs of North America. Buying a car with a history of winning top awards (not just local car shows) is another method. Although the checks needed to verify condition are legion, and some judging schemas ignore entire aspects of the car, such as suspension components, the following guide points should establish if the car is a serious contender or not. There is no space to publish exhaustive judging criteria and you may have to do a little research to establish what is correct for ‘your’ car. Under the bonnet Assuming the major components such as the engine, radiator, and frame rails, etc. are standard, the devil is in the detail. For example, are all the vacuum hoses correct cloth braided type? Are the brake reservoir hoses correct with a yellow stripe? Do the reservoirs have filters inside? Are the water and other hose clamps the correct Cheney or Jubilee brand, not modern stainless? Are the throttle linkages and brackets correct cadmium plate? Do the hydraulic cylinders have the original date tags? Are all fasteners the right type – with the special ‘long’ Nylocs on the frame fixings? Is the harness correctly cloth covered, held by the correct plastic strapping (not cable ties) and with a period hard rubber battery fitted? Are the electrical items correctly date-stamped with correct decals? Is the original Lucas-type dynamo (3.8) or alternator (4.2) fitted, with correct shields over the latter and a ‘Negative Earth’ plate on the heater box? Are the exhaust manifolds correctly enamelled and suspension joints fitted with grease nipples, not sealed for life? Are the suspension rubbers original matt black or incorrect modern shiny polymer material? Are discs and calipers the original type and the water shields present (4.2)? Is the data plate an original etched type or a screen-printed reproduction? Is the fuel filter correct and are all bulkhead grommets present and the correct type? Is the wiper motor harness connector clamp present? Is the headlamp (and cabin) glass correctly Triplex marked? Is the felt seal present over the radiator stoneguard and the alloy shield present below? Are the torsion bars’ shields present if required, with the correct fabric strip and factory aluminium strip clamps? Are the bonnet hinges body colour with black springs and the brass washers at the pivots (S1)? Are all three SU carb damper tops the same, and numbered AUC 8115? Do the carbs have their tags and are they in the right place? Is the fuel rail correct with a screwed union to the flex pipe, and are the coil, spark plug conduit and plug caps correct? Body and interior Are the wiper blades and steering wheel spokes polished (S1) or satin (S2)? Is the horn inset trim ring chrome (S1) or black (S2)? Does the soft top on a convertible have the lead shot bag sewn in and a duck green frame? Is the gear lever gaiter the correct leatherette material or rubber moulding for the model, with the correct ferrule on the former? Is the dash top the correct moulding or creased DIY vinyl? Are the under-dash panels and map light present and correct? Is the rev counter redlined at 5500rpm (3.8) or 5000rpm (4.2) with or without a working clock (S1)? Is the radio a period item, with speaker(s) invisible behind the console sides? Is the interior trim held with invisible clips or incorrect visible screws? Are the headlight trim screws slotted head (3.8) or Pozidriv (4.2) and the correct PL type headlamps used for the 3.8? Is the bumper rubber trim mounted with the beaded edge invisible? Are the wheels curly hub (S1) or smooth (S2)? Are the exhaust resonators the short type (3.8), longer type (4.2) or curved (S2)? Is the boot or tailgate seal correctly fitted, allowing the panel to sit flush? Are the boot boards (4.2) or foldable cover (3.8) correctly fitted? Is the toolkit present and correct, with Thor knock-off hammer if appropriate? Is the jack present and of the right type? Is the original in-tank fuel pump present (3.8) or an SU type (4.2) with white nylon fuel lines? Are the panel gaps good with flat and level bumpers and over-rider faces perpendicular to the ground? Are the rear lamp lenses and reflectors the correct colour for your market and Lucas brand rather than aftermarket? Are the shock absorbers original pattern and the halfshaft universal joint covers fitted (4.2)? If all these items check out and the provenance is good, the car is at least fair and worth checking thoroughly. Daily driver The fifteen minute check for a moderately priced car should concentrate on the fundamentals. These should be checked for the concours car too of course, but are less likely to be in dispute for a top car and reputable seller. You need to be more cautious if buying a mid-price car privately or from a general classic trader. Do the numbers on the data plate even match the car’s components? The engine number is stamped on the block either above the oil filter or, on late engines, at the back on the left bell flange. Early engines also had the number stamped on the head behind the timing chain in the cam box valley. The chassis number is on the right side of the front transverse engine frame (‘picture frame’), above the shock absorber mount. The gearbox and body numbers are harder to check quickly, but if a manual 2+2 has a chassis number ending in BW, then it was originally an automatic, so that at least shows a non-original transmission. Be aware of ground-off numbers and fake re-stamps. All of the checks under the next heading apply too. Rough but complete With E-types, more than perhaps any mass-produced classic, you simply must take extreme care to inspect the bodywork as closely as possible. This is the most expensive, time consuming and skill-dependent aspect of the car to rectify if it is in poor condition. It is far better to purchase a car with suspect mechanicals in a confirmed good body, than take on a structurally questionable E-type with good running gear. When examining a good daily driver or a rough but running car, the key is to assume nothing and to check everything. Two cars in apparently similar condition can vary hugely, and one which appears in fair condition can actually be in far worse repair than another which looks much scruffier. Being methodical and working through the following check list will give you a quick overall snapshot of the car’s condition. Under the bonnet, does all look tidy and corrosion free? Does the bonnet hold itself open and look dent free from inside as well as outside, showing no filler has been used? Does the car have the correct E-type engine or at least one from another Jaguar? Walk away from any car with a non-Jaguar engine, especially if the frames have been cut or the transmission tunnel savaged. Assuming a Jaguar XK engine is fitted, does it sport the correct carburettors for its age and market? Triple SUs were used for all UK and most export cars except almost all North American spec Series 1.5 and certainly S2 cars, which used twin Strombergs with cast alloy or pressed steel crossover ducts to special exhaust manifolds. Are the correct fibreglass air plenum and filter canister still present? Some late S2 cars with Strombergs used slim steel filter cases similar to the XJ6 type, with a flexible crossover hot air intake pipe connected to a pressed steel exhaust heat shield. On the inside, is the trim more or less to spec and in good condition? Does it smell of leather or mould, indicating a water leak? Does it look neglected or cared for (as opposed to polished merely for sale)? Do the windows work and is the glass clear or scratched? Do all the electrics work, especially the wipers, and does the fan come on when the engine warms up? Try to see as much of the underside as possible – the floor and chassis rails should be body colour over stonechip paint, although good underseal is acceptable. Use your fridge magnet to check the outside of the sills for filler – especially in front of and behind the doors, where the body panels meet the bulkheads. Also use your fridge magnet to check around the wheel arches, and the vulnerable front and rear corners where the lights are attached. The boot floor at the back and bonnet undertray at the front are both prone to scraping, subsequent rusting and perforation from both inside and outside. Inspect them closely and be sceptical of underseal here as elsewhere. Look at the tyres for unusual wear patterns indicating suspension problems. Look for leaks from the differential output and input seals, and the back of the engine at the cam feed or the bell housing below. If the car starts, first press the brakes and see if the pedal moves further as soon as the engine runs. This will indicate if the servo is working. On test, the car should run straight and true with no strange noises and not pull to one side under braking or acceleration. The normal road test tips apply about checking for smoke on acceleration or the overrun, clunks, rattles, wheel bearing noises etc. Many E-types are sold as recent imports or ‘barn finds’ awaiting restoration. Their pricing varies from the realistic to the ridiculously optimistic, but in all cases it is almost certain that the cost of the car, plus a reasonable restoration, will be far more than the price of a car in good condition to begin with. If, however, your funds simply do not stretch to a good car, or you are looking specifically for a long-term restoration project, then they may be worthy of consideration, provided you have no illusions about the time and resources you will need to finish the job. At least with obvious restoration candidates, the faults are usually on display. Even so, beware of the over-optimistic assumption that the damage you see is the damage you will need to fix. By the time an E-type looks visibly poor, much of the body shell may be scrap, and restoration will be a far more complex and costly task than you envisage. This has to be reflected in a rock-bottom price, unless the car is anything other than an ultra rare flat-floor or outside bonnet latch vehicle, or one with proven exceptional competition or historical significance. Keep any original components you replace. - Zasíláčí. © [Kod produktu: h6uweG6oZW OzGJhTGtjN qg==]

Jaguar E-Type 3.8 & 4.2 litre (1961-1971) - Essential Buyer’s Guide