książka jest fabrycznie NOWA , oryginalna, papierowa - niedostępna w polskiej wersji językowej , - ... - zapraszam do szybkich zakupów - WIEDZA DLA TWOICH KÓŁEK © Austin Healey Big Healeys (1953-1967) - Essential Buyer’s Guide - praktyczny poradnik dla kupujących - Reid Trummel, Veloce Publishing 2017, język angielski , 64 str, format 19,5x13,9 cm, 92 kolorowych zdjęć, miękka oprawa, waga 0,14 kg - kieszonkowy poradnik dla kupujących samochód Austin Healey z lat 1953-1967 - w tym modele: Austin Healey 100 serii BN1 i BN2, Austin Healey 100-Six serii BN4 i BN6, Austin Healey 3000 Mark I serii BN7 i BT7, Austin Healey 3000 Mark II serii BN7, BT7 i BJ7, Austin Healey 3000 Mark III serii BJ8 - obejmuje porady w zakresie: 1) wybór właściwego modelu, 2) koszty nabycia, 3) ceny serwisu, 4) ceny części nowych i używanych, 5) wady i zalety, 6) wartość rynkową poszczególnych modeli, 7) technika kupowania, 8) słabe punkty samochodu, 9) realna wycena i ocena poszczególnych mechanizmów i wyposażenia, 10) zakupy na aukcjach (wady i zalety), 11) dokumenty i dokumentacja, 12) restaurować czy nie, 13) ważne adresy (kluby, firmy restaurujące i dostawcy części), 14) dane techniczne silników, skrzyń biegów, hamulców, dopuszczalne rozmiary opon, 15) statystyki produkcyjne 16) masy i rozmiary, - stanowi zestaw bardzo cennych rad, których zastosowanie ułatwi wybór właściwego egzemplarza i zaoszczędzenie wielu nieoczekiwanych kosztów i problemów w czasie eksploatacji i przy naprawach - kod produktu VE-AU-HE-EBG - spis treści: 1.Is an Austin-Healey right for you? 2.Cost considerations 3.Living with a Big Healey 4.Relative values 5.Before you view 6.Inspection equipment 7.Fifteen minute evaluation 8.Key points 9.Serious evaluation 10.Auctions 11.Paperwork 12.What’s it worth? 13.Do you really want to restore? 14.Paint problems 15.Lack of use problems 16.The Big Healey community 17.Vital statistics Index - wprowadzenie: Having this book in your pocket is like having a real marque expert by your side. Benefit from the author’s years of real ownership experience, learn how to spot a bad car quickly, and how to assess a promising one like a professional. Get the right car at the right price! - streszczenie wydawcy: Interest in Big Healey models has continued to grow since production was halted over 40 years ago, and support for the marque remains strong. This book is an indispensible resource for anyone contemplating the purchase of an example of these iconic cars. A candid assessment of each model guides you to selecting the right model for your intended use, and arms you with the essential knowledge to select the right example of this increasingly popular marque. Featuring both short and thorough evaluation guides, advice on paperwork, auctions, restorations, and much more, this is an invaluable book for both first-time buyers and seasoned collectors - niezależne opinie: It’s more than 60 years since the first 100 and 300 Series Austing Healeys rolled off the production line, so potential buyers need to choose carefully – and The Essential Buyer’s Gude is a great book to get before taking the plunge. Author Trummel points out everything you should look for, with handy hints, tips and illustrations. * * * * Auto Express When asked by a non-owner, “What should I look for when buying a big Healey?” a current owner should reply, “You gotta get this book!” Baird Foster, Freelance - przykładowy tekst: If you’ve found the model you want, and it has passed your 15-minute inspection, it’s time to conduct a more thorough and more detailed inspection. The results of this inspection will likely reveal faults that you did not detect earlier, so be prepared to reassess your opinion of the car. If you’re truly interested in a particular car, it is easy to talk yourself into overlooking, justifying and rationalising any faults that are subsequently found. However, you should not overlook them, but, instead, note them carefully, and remember that any faults found may offer you leverage in negotiating a price. Circle the boxes next to each subheading for excellent (4 points), good (3 points), average (2 points) and poor (1 point), and then add up the points at the end of your detailed inspection. Stance Begin by noting the stance of the car as you did in the 15-minute evaluation, only now you should be more critical and assign a score. Does the car sit level? Does it appear to sit at the proper height, with the tyres centred in the wheelarches? Does it appear to sag in the middle? Big Healeys sit low, but not so low that they look like their suspension has collapsed. Remember also that the raised height at the rear of the 3000 Mark III ‘Phase 2’ cars makes the wheels appear low in the wheel openings, or perhaps like the rear of the car has not fully settled on the suspension. It looks a bit awkward, but it is correct. To continue inspection of the overall structure of a Big Healey you will need to elevate the car, so it’s helpful if arrangements can be made to use the lift of a nearby garage. The undercarriage of a Big Healey will tell many tales, and the cars sit so low that you can’t adequately see underneath them when they are on the ground. Additionally, the trip to a shop with a lift you can use is an excellent opportunity to conduct a test drive. Test drive (not less than 15 minutes) Cold start A properly tuned Big Healey will start rapidly and easily, even when cold. To start the motor, place the gearlever in neutral and begin by pushing the throttle to the floor and then pull the choke knob rearward the full extent of its travel. Then take your foot off the throttle and engage the starter. Note that there is a starter button on all models except for the BJ8 series cars. If starting takes more than several seconds, something is likely out of adjustment. When the engine fires, push the choke knob approximately halfway in, leaving it out only as far as necessary for the engine to run smoothly. Let the engine run for a few minutes before starting out, and return the choke knob to the fully in position as soon as the car will run smoothly without choking. Note the oil pressure immediately after starting. On a cold car it should be at or above 50psi. Clutch operation The original clutch in Big Healeys doesn’t require a huge effort to operate, and engagement should occur roughly halfway in the clutch pedal travel if properly adjusted. Gearbox operation The series BN1 cars have a decidedly unusual shift pattern, with just three forward speeds. First gear is selected by moving the lever right and rearward, second gear is left and forward, and third (top) gear is left and rearward. All three gears are synchromeshed, although shifting too quickly – either up or down – will result in grinding gears since the synchro rings (‘baulking rings’) are not as efficient as those of the later Big Healeys. Overdrive operates on the two top gears providing five forward ratios. All subsequent Big Healeys, beginning with the BN2 series, have a conventional four-speed gearbox with a conventional ‘H’ shift pattern, but there is no synchromesh on first gear, and, while the synchro rings are improved, it’s still quite possible to grind gears by shifting too quickly. Think of a gear change as a two-step motion with a slight hesitation in neutral to avoid grinding gears. On the four-speed Big Healeys the overdrive works on the two top gears providing six forward ratios. Some gear noise is normal, especially in first and reverse gears. However, when taking off from rest in first gear, second gear should be selected as soon practicable – well before 3000rpm are reached – and in no case should the engine be run up to the maximum permissible rpm (the ‘red line’) in first or second gears. Overdrive operation When conditions permit, such as driving at a steady speed of at least 45mph, engage the overdrive via the fascia-mounted toggle switch. Overdrive engagement will be indicated by a drop in engine rpm and a slight seat-of-the-pants bump, perhaps a little stronger than that of an automatic transmission shifting gears. It may also be necessary to momentarily decrease engine rpm to facilitate engagement. To disengage the overdrive, flip the dash toggle back to the ‘Normal’ position and then momentarily depress the throttle about half way. You will feel the downshift and engine rpm will increase. If the unit downshifts immediately when you operate the dash switch without the need to briefly depress the throttle, the throttle switch is not adjusted properly, but it is easy to correct. The purpose of the throttle switch is to assure that the unit doesn’t shift from Overdrive to Normal unless power is being transmitted from the engine towards the rear wheels, as opposed to from the rear wheels to the engine, which is the condition when your foot is off the throttle and you are slowing under engine compression. Steering feel The steering system of Big Healeys is of the ‘worm and peg’ type. While it’s efficient enough, even in perfect condition the steering has at least some small amount of slack or ‘play’ in it. Play of about 1 or 2cm (about one-half inch) of steering wheel rotation is normal even when the steering gear is in optimal condition. The steering feel is not as direct as with rack and pinion type steering, but if properly adjusted it will provide the driver a good sense of the road surface. Braking performance All Big Healeys had drum brakes until March 1959 with the introduction of front disc brakes on the 3000. Additionally, a brake servo became optional in August 1961, and then standard beginning in October 1963. Brake performance is adequate but will not compare with modern brakes, and extra caution and additional following distance should be maintained, especially when driving the early cars with all drum brakes. Many owners have retrofitted front disc brakes to early cars, and this represents a well-accepted departure from original specification. Oil pressure Indicated oil pressure will vary greatly between a cold and a fully warmed engine. Once warm, at speed and with engine rpm at or above 2500, a Big Healey should indicate 55-60psi, although 50psi is also acceptable. A range of 40-45psi at this speed is the lower limit of a healthy engine, and anything below 40psi is cause for concern. At idle, 20psi is normal, and freshly rebuilt engines will typically indicate 25psi at idle. If indicated oil pressure is in doubt, the only safe thing to do is to switch off and investigate the cause, and one of the first causes to suspect is the accuracy of the gauge itself, another being a weak oil pressure relief spring. Water temperature This will vary depending on many factors, including the rating of the thermostat, condition of the cooling system, the composition of the coolant, the ambient air temperature, the type of radiator fan, the terrain being traversed, and the speed of the car. However, once the engine is warm, and while driving at moderate speed or faster, anything under an indicated 195 degrees F is generally acceptable. A steady 170-185 degrees would be considered very good. In very warm weather, a steady 190-200 degrees is not unusual, and not a cause for concern. It’s also important to note that the indicated water temperature will temporarily rise considerably after the engine is switched off. This is normal and does not indicate a fault. © [Kod produktu: h6uweG6oZW OzGJhTGtjN qg==]

Austin Healey Big Healeys (1953-1967) - Essential Buyer’s Guide